In Discussion: Queue Culture
Do good things come to those who wait?
In Discussion is where we dive deeper into what’s happening in and around our world of hospitality: the things we care about, the things we love, and of course, some hot takes.
There’s something distinctly British about a queue. Orderly, patient, ritualistic, occasionally grumbling, but ultimately accepting. It’s one of the things we do best. And London’s love affair with restaurant queue culture has taken on a life of its own. In a city filled with endless dining options, it’s often shorthand for a place that’s worth your time. After all, places like Padella and Dishoom built their reputations not just on their food, but also on the allure of the queue. Oftentimes, the wait itself becomes part of the dining experience: a prelude to the meal, peeking through windows at what’s on offer and building anticipation for what’s to come.
We now live in an age where hype moves faster than word of mouth ever can. Social media turns restaurants into destinations with creators like TopJaw and EatingWithTod feeding our appetite for the next big thing – from viral smash burgers to glossy hand-pulled biangbiang noodles. When the US-imported Dave’s Hot Chicken opened in London last year, queues stretched for hours, with a security guard on the door, not for safety, but to manage the hordes of hungry fans.
Dining out is as much a part of our social identity as it is our sensory pleasure. It taps into an “if you know, you know” culture where being part of the buzz matters, even if the food – in the end – doesn’t always live up to the hype.
Yet sometimes, there’s joy to be found in a queue.
Bakeries are some of the most popular spots in London – there isn’t a weekend that goes by where crowds don’t descend on Pophams in Hackney or Toad in Camberwell. And it’s not just pastries either: It’s Bagels routinely garners a queue down the street for its viral NYC-style bagels by midday, while the weekly sandwich drops at Chatsworth Bakehouse in Crystal Palace sell out faster than Glastonbury tickets when they’re announced on Instagram each Monday morning.
This taps into our love for buzz, but more importantly, adds to our ritualistic desires for small but meaningful indulgences. As journalist Ajesh Patalay wrote for FT HTSI, the cult of the pastry we’re currently witnessing is simply due to the fact that baked goods are now the ‘ultimate accessible luxury’.
Lest we forget, there are many places that have mastered the art of the queue.
Not only seamlessly managing the wait but also turning it into a crucial part of the dining experience. Many smart restaurateurs sweeten the deal with queue-side hospitality: house-made crisps handed out at Agora in Borough Market, trays of golden chips handed out at E Pellicci, and bottomless cups of steaming chai at Dishoom.
Do you have a queue story to share? Are there any destinations you think are cultivating a better queue culture? We want to hear about them.