Travel Guide 02: Madrid
Anyone for a vermú and gilda?
Perhaps it’s the winter chill, or the seemingly never-ending month of January, but we can’t stop dreaming of sunnier escapes - and Madrid is firmly on our minds. The beating heart of Spain, Madrid is a city that’s impossible not to fall in love with, boasting a rich culinary tapestry where long-standing institutions meet a bold new generation of chefs breathing life into the city’s dining scene.
Among this new generation is Chuck George, who is set to open his debut flagship restaurant @chucksnyc in the city later this month, bringing playful remixed bistro dishes rooted in Chuck’s American-Filipino heritage. Known for its signature griddle burger stacks, which have built a devoted global following, Chuck’s is now redefining its identity with an exciting shift towards a broader menu that ventures beyond burgers.
To guide us through the city’s many gems, we turned to Chuck himself, alongside our trusted team (including our GB&C expert and former Madrid resident, Gregor) for their must-visit spots.
BEST CHEAP EATS
Becky: I don’t think you could go wrong in Bar El Boquerón, even if you tried. This is a proper old school tapas spot, with floors littered with napkins and prawn heads from happy customers. They have excellent seafood options - both fresh and tinned - and their gambas plancha are the tastiest you’ll ever try for just €4.
Gregor: Casa Mingo is an iconic spot tucked away on a quiet corner by the river that has been slinging out the classics since the 19th century. Their pollo asado draws queues around the block - and for good reason. The chicken is perfectly crisp, served in a pool of its own stock, and best enjoyed with copious amounts of Asturian Sidra.
Chuck: I love Pacifico Burger in central Madrid for their banging smash burgers. A good one for when you’re on the go.
WHERE TO SPLURGE
Gregor: La Capa is brand new but it looks and feels as though it’s been there for an eternity, in the best way possible. It ticks all the boxes; a simple, no-frills menu of Spanish classics executed to perfection, an expertly curated wine list, and beautiful interiors. I absolutely urge you to go here - it’s well worth the trip out of the city centre.
Chuck: Los 33 is a great place with an open-fire gaucho grill and beautiful interiors. They also have a solid playlist, which is always a plus. If you’re looking for seasonal, local sharing plates then I’d recommend Tonton, a beautiful spot by Bosco Suarez de Puga with a kitchen led by Chef Alice Reydet.
WHERE TO GO FOR A DRINK/OUT OUT
Becky: Walk down any street in Madrid and you’ll see people with a drink in hand from 6pm onwards. For a taste of local Madrid, head straight to Plaza de las Comendadoras at sundown, grab a couple of cañas from Cafe Moderno, and sit outside and soak up the atmosphere - a great way to start the evening. From there, head to De Vinos, a sweet little wine bar on La Palma 76, then see where the night takes you…
Chuck: Masa, by way of Barcelona, is my local go-to wine bar in Plaza Olavide. They serve a great selection of natural wines, as well as some banging bar snacks - their kimchee grilled cheese is a must-order. Casa Música always has good vibes and great cocktails, with a basement bar hosting a regular rotation of DJs if you’re in the mood to dance.
Gregor: Every good night in Madrid begins in Mercado San Fernando, the central market in the Lavapies Neighbourhood. Start with a bottle of natural wine and a board of local meats and cheeses at Bendito before joining the crowds in the central ‘plaza’ to huddle around a barrel with a vermouth (or five), before spilling out into the street and onto the next.
BEST NEIGHBOURHOOD TO EXPLORE
Chuck: Chamberí is a very up and coming area, home to many cool and creative new openings. Ideal for an impromptu food and drink tour.
Becky: Malasaña in the north west of the city is a great place to spend the day. There's plenty of vintage shopping to be done in the colourful streets shaded by trees. And if you're in the area, you MUST go to Pez Tortilla. I stood at the bar for a good half an hour trying to get the waiter's attention with my extremely limited Spanish, but it was so worth the wait.
Gregor: I might be biased as it’s by where I used to live, but Lavapiés is bursting at the seams with culture and probably every other doorway as a restaurant or bar. The area is filled with steep narrow streets and colourful buildings and is vibrating with life at all hours of the day.
BEST COFFEE SPOT
Chuck: Toma, always. I like to come here for my daily coffee, midday breakfast (their Turkish eggs are the best), and to hide away when I need a moment of respite from the restaurant.
Gregor: Pastora is a great café-come-deli-come-bakery. Grab something to go and head to Jardin de Vistillas, a beautiful garden just around the corner with views over the cathedral. The perfect spot to perch with your coffee and take in the view.
CULTURAL PICKS
Becky: Madrid has some brilliant art galleries. I skipped the Museo Nacional del Prado and headed for CaixaForum instead. The architecture is beautiful, and they host a variety of exhibitions throughout the year.
Gregor: La Casa Encendida is a social and cultural centre on the edge of Embajadores, as well as being a great place to work (with a fab, free rooftop). They host exhibitions, film screenings and often curate incredible programmes of experimental electronic artists from around the world if you fancy.
Chuck: Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, home to Picasso’s Guernica. Need I say more?
BEST SPOT FOR A… VERMOUTH
Gregor: A mid afternoon vermú and gilda is somewhat of a right of passage in Madrilleño culture, with most places having vermouth on tap at no more than €2.50. La Gildería in La Latina is such a cool spot, with a nice young crowd and a tonne of different vermouths to be enjoyed with something from their extensive range of gildas. Always a vibe, day or night.
Stay tuned for more travel guides from us soon.
Love, GB&C