Travel Guide 03: Athens
Recommendations from our in-house expert
Pani here, GB&C’s resident Athens tour guide.
Athens has become one of Europe’s hottest cities to visit over the last couple of years, and at least six members of our team have holidayed to the city recently, making use of my extensive Google Map (you can have it too, if you ask nicely). Here is an unexhaustive list, offering my most frequented spots and a balanced experience of the city, across dining and culture.
Athens is a beautiful place, full of ancient ruins and golden sunsets, decaying neoclassical buildings and concrete apartment blocks, with so much energy and a constant soundtrack of live music and motorbikes. Takis Zontiros of Greek Visions, Chris Kontos of Kennedy and Theodoros Giannitsacis of Pressure do a very good job of documenting everyday Greek life, both in and around the capital, so ahead of your trip, I suggest you follow their accounts to acclimatise to the chaos.
One thing to remember as you fall in love with Athens, is that it’s not without its issues. Greece has been riddled by economic crises for decades, and suffers from non-stop corruption in its governance. But at the same time - and I want to be clear here - Greeks love to eat and drink.
Even if you ignore all the recommendations and only follow your nose, you will enjoy the most generous hospitality. Greek cuisine is more than feta and souvlaki, so eat at a mayeirio for home cooking, at an ouzeri for a plate of meze with every round of drinks, and start each morning with a fredo espresso and a freshly baked pie, to be found on every corner.
TRADITIONAL EATING
Makedonikon is my preferred pie shop. I like their bougatsa best, eaten warm, with cinammon and icing sugar sprinkled inside.
Diporto is still a must visit, despite its internet fame. Go early to avoid disappointment and say yes to the wine, made by owner Mitsos. If you can’t be accommodated, Epirus in the meat market is a great alternative with a lot more dishes on offer.
Stani is a dairy shop that’s ideal for breakfast or a snack. I get the Greek yoghurt with honey and walnuts or, if I’m feeling more indulgent, the loukoumades are excellent.
Lefteris O Politis for gyro. Not the way this dish gets tragically misrepresented in the UK, but the original Greek way.
NEW WAVE DINING
Pharaoh is clever, both in its design and its offer of a half portion of any dish you feel like trying. A new wave taverna, it offers classic Greek cooking made contemporary.
LS&Sia has redefined Athenian restaurants. The blue print for many spin offs (aesthetically) across the city, it’s worth booking ahead as they’re always busy. Prepare yourself for a romantic meal of exceptional cooking.
Birdman is an institution. A very special yakitori bar with a vinyl DJ, that’s always heaving with people. The beef nigiri are genius and the cocktails are spot on.
Taverna Ton Filon is picturesque and another redition of traditional-turned-modern, while maintaining a more low key and homely setting.
PLACES TO DRINK
Wine is Fine is constantly busy, and worth it. If you want to be surrounded by buzz and good people watching, then this is the place. Walk in, pick from the bottles they have open that day and stand outside while you enjoy a glass or three.
Foyer Espresso Bar has the best baristas in the city, tasteful design and smart snacks. Read more about it in Slop’s latest newsletter. Foyer is in the heart of Pangrati so I’d go to the Basil & Elias Goulandris Foundation for some modern art while you’re in the area.
Galaxy Bar is ideal for a pre or post dinner cocktail. Old school in its style, with wood panelling and smartly dressed bartenders, it’s a step back into another time.
ADAD is a bookshop-cafe-bar on the square in Ano Petralona, a particularly picturesque neighbourhood. Nearby, you have Rantevou and Oikonomou - perfect lunch or dinner options - so I would visit ADAD across the afternoon and while away the hours there.
CULTURAL VISITS
The Benaki Museum is wonderful for an extensive archive of Greek culture and gold jewellery (and a great terrace) while the Cycladic Museum is a minimalist’s dream, with a fantastic sun-soaked café in its centre.
Syntagma is at the epicentre of the city, and in front of the Hellenic Parliament stand the traditionally-dressed tsoliades. To me, the changing of the guard is a must see. Perhaps it’s a remain of childhood memories, but there’s something very charming about watching a dance of graceful synchronicity every half an hour.
Lycabettus Hill should be climbed just before sunset. In the middle of the city you have Filopappou park, which offers some respite and good views of the Parthenon, but at the very top of Lycabettus Hill the views are panoramic, all the way to the sea.
Ninetto Gallery has recently opened in a neoclassical building near the University. It’s a contemporary gallery, and one of several spots in the city (Breeder and Alkinois are others) that’s worth a visit.
SHOPPING SPOTS
PHAON is an extremely chic boutique, with all things scent-related. Find fresh flowers, perfume and candles from top quality and smartly curated brands.
It’s a Shirt is a father-daughter owned and operated shirt shop, often using dead stock fabrics and handmaking everything. The store is beautiful and the shopping experience is delightful.
Hyper Hypo is a bookshop with excellent art and a wide-range of cultural publications, including many from their own imprint. Worth a browse.
Mo’s is my favourite vintage haunt. Mo sources his products from the wardrobes of wealthy Athenian octogenarians and I once bought a fantastic Prada bag from him. He also holds a seriously impressive collection of runway pieces and deadstock sunglasses.
KALI OREXI (bon appétit) as we say in Greek!
More travel guides coming from us soon, so let us know if there’s anywhere in particular you’d like to see next,
GB&C
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